Decorative, Reeded Bowl
Demonsration by Richard Findley
An entertaining and informative demonstartion by professional woodturner Richard Findley
Maple bowl blank 8 x 2 inches (200 x 50mm)
Mount the blank on a screw chuck. Firstly true up the edge, using a 3/8 bowl gouge. A short finger grind is Richards preference. Push cut across the edge. Quickly true up the face, just at centre line. Keep the tip of tool on centre. Draw the tool from centre to the outside (a pull cut) keep the flute at 10 o’clock.
Richard explains the reasons for using a spigot to the bowl base. This allows far more design scope. Mark on the size of spigot to suit your chuck.
Start to remove waste wood. Start from the spigot and pull cut to the outside edge. Form a spigot about 8mm deep. Form the dovetail using the skew, and put a small dimple to the centre. Start to shape using the draw cut, working from the corner. Work on the shape, as you near the final shape start to take finer cuts and concentrate on the finish. Take the bowl and chuck, off the lathe and have a good look at the shape and refine now, you can’t do it once you have finished!
Now for the final finish cut to achieve a great finish from the tool. Use a shake hands grip. Flute at 10 o’clock bevel rubbing take a very fine cut all the way.
If you have some small ridges or lines now try the shear cut. Flute at about 8 O’clock using the lower flute with a very light cut. Sand up, and if you have got the tooling right this won't take long.
Start with a little power sanding. Moving from180 through to 600 grit.
Re mount in the chuck jaws and check the bowl is running true.
Form a very gentle curve to the rim. Use a gentle pull / shear cut. Mark out the approx positions for the beads. Then using a ¼ inch beading tool. (Ashley Isles)Keep the flute down and handle down, this will give a very clean cut, wiggle the tool to give a bit of clearance. Cut at about centre line. Lift the handle near the end of the cut to prevent tear out to the top of the bead. Cut an odd number of beads, it almost always looks better.
We need to prevent the colur bleeding into the wood, a close garin timber (like Maple) is recomended. Sand the beads and the outer area prior to painting. Use a sanding sealer to help prevent the paint bleeding. Acrylic paint is best for this as it tends to sit on the surface and wont sink into the grain. If the lathe will spin slowly spay whilst spinning, its best to apply several coats for the best finish. Let the paint dry properly between coats.
Inspect the beads now there dry, re-sand lightly if necessary and re coat.
We now need to clean the black off without catching the beads. Use a skew as a scraper taking very light cuts.
Clean the inner section in the same manner.
Mark the postion for hollowing out. Form a safety "v" to help prevent the bowl gouge skating across the beads. Work in small stages leaving the bulk of timber in the middle. This keeps the bowl much more stable. For this size bowl either method is suitable. Form a slight undercut to the rim. Still using the 3/8 bowl gouge. Slow right down near the centre and come in just under centre to remove the pip. This should end up in your gouge as demonstrated twice. (no fluke) Apply a little sanding sealer to the slightly rough grain to help hold the fibres together, let it dry and then take a light finishing cut.
Richard recomends to grind your bowl gouge with a second bevel to allow for a tight curve to be formed.
Now the shape is finished we need to sand, starting with the reverse or underneath of the bowl and rim, inner rim and bowl hollow. Power sanding can cause problems with tight internal curves. Hand sand these areas for the perfect finish. It’s a good policy to always clean the inside with tissue paper between grits, which removes any residue and grit particles.
Remove the bowl and reverse mount to finish the base.
Using a face plate with a disc of MDF and a layer of tissue paper to protect, place the top surface of the bowl on the MDF and align the tailstock centre into the small dimple formed earlier. Shape the foot ensuring that it is slightly hollow. Sand around the foot area and gradually blend the sanding to ensure you have no bumps or ridges. Apply your chosen finish. Remove the pip with a carving gouge or sharp chisel. Sand. All finished.
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